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The Okavango River rises in Angola, flows south through Namibia and into Botswana; then the river's waters spread, sprawling over the sandy wastes of the Kalahari Desert to form na immense, extraordinary inland delta. This maze of charmels, islands, watcrlily-covered pools and lagoons covers more than 15,000 sq km (6,000 sq mi). The waters of this, the largest landlocked delta in the world, never reach the sea; trapped in the parched Kalahari (which covers most of Botswana) this watery wilderness is a magnet for wildlife. In the lush forests and along the floodplains, hundreds of species of bird flourish and lions, elephants, hippos and crocodiles, as well as smaller animals, congregate.
Trekking trips and motorboat cruises are based at various lodges on the islands, but the perfect way to experience the beauty and serenity of the Delta is drifting along passageways of papyrus, gliding across the pale golden waters in a shallow-draft dugout canoe, a mokoro. Traditionally made from logs of ebony or sausage tree wood, these amazingly stable craft are now often constructed of fibreglass - international conservation groups encourage this to save the slow-growing trees.
Generally a mokoro carries two passengers, supplies and a paler, who stands at the back with the ngashi, a long pole made from the mogonono tree. Day trips start at the town of Maun, which lies to the south of the Delta; two-or three-day trips can also be arranged, overnighting in campsites in the Delta. Trips combine poling and trekking - poling is hard work. Most 7h polers speak some English, and are very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna, though they tend to be rather shy.
HOW
By Mokoro or dugout canoe
DEPART
Maun
WHEN TO GO
July to September
TIME IT TAKES
1,2 or 3 days
HIGHLIGHTS
Wildlife: you will spot hippos and crocodiles in the waterways, and you may see elephants and antelopes while trekking.
Local knowledge as well as identifying wildlife, polers can explain Delta life.
YOU SHOULD KNOW
Wildlife can be dangerous camp sensibly and never swim without checking with your poler.
