Rhône Cruise

Hotels in Avignon and Lyon

The mighty River Rhône rises in the Swiss mountains, flows through Lake Geneva and on into France. Join by the River Saône, this fickle river used to be hazardous, with fierce currents, unexpected shalows and sudden spates. It was tamed in the 20th century with the construction of locks and other major works - a process that both improved navigation and created several hydro-electric plants.

A cruise down the Rhône is an excellent way to appreciate the river and some of the special sights to be found close to its banks - most organized cruises stop to offer passengers an opportunity to visit places of interest (of which there are many).

Most end-to-end cruises start at Chalons-sur-Saône, to offer an entrée to wine country, in the form off those splendid Beaujolais and Mâconnais vineyards, all within easy reach of Bordeaux. The rivers merge at Lyon. From there the first port of call is Vienne, capital of the Roman province of Viennoise. As the ship heads for Tain l'Hermitage this too, is wine country - the famous vineyard-clad Cotes du Rhône slide by as the cruise passes Valence and Montelimar before reaching the delightful medieval village of Viviers. 

Below Viviers, the boat traverses the extraordinary Bollène Lock and cruises down to Avignon, home of 14th and 15th century Popes and Antipopes. It then continues to Arles, the important Roman city that retains many well-preserved reminders of that era. From there, you have a choice of route as the Rhône splits, its two arm (Grand Rhône and Petit Rhône) forming the Delta as they proceed to the Mediterranean.

For those who do not wish to take an extended luxury cruise there is, of course, a huge variety of day cruises and it is also possible to hire self-drive boats.

HOW

By boat

WHEN TO GO

April to September

TIME IT TAKES

A typical cruise from Chalons-sur-Saône to the sea, with daily sightseeing trips, will last six days.

HIGHLIGHTS

Exploring the traffic-free narrow streets and alleys of the famous old St.Jean Quarter in Lyon.

The famous medieval Pont d'Avignon as immortalized in song, and the impressive Palais de Popes.

The ruined Crussol Castle near Valence - one of the most impressive sights in the entire Rhône Valley.

A visit to those famous free-roaming bulls and white horses in the Camargue's extensive marshlands.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Once steam propulsion came in during the 1830s, Rhône steamers cut the journey time from Lyon to Arles to just one day - horse-drawn barges took up to three weeks.

Hotels in Avignon and Lyon

Saigon to Angkor Wat

Hotels in Saigon and Siem Reap

Don't be afraid to refer Ho Chi Minh City as Saigon - most of the local people still do. And it's from Saigon that one of Indochina's great cycling expedictions begins, taking the adventurous pedal-pusher from the former capital of South Vietnam through the Mekong Delta and on to the drier country and contrasting sights of Cambodia, ending at the ancient city of Angkor Wat. This fabulous testament to the Khmer civilization was built between the 9th and the 12th centuries and is now a stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site.

With proper planning this can be a solo journey, though it does involve travelling light, buying provisions and finding accommodation as you go. It is also possible to find organized groups who are undertaking this marathon ride, where kit can be sent on ahead to pre-booked overnight stops - these are often sponsored trips arraged by charities.

There are endless choices of route to follow, but one well tried and proven journey is from Saigon via My Tho, Tra Vinh, Can Tho, Long Xuyen, Chau Doc, Nha Bang (on the Cambodia border), Takeo, Phnom Penh, Tang Krasang and Phumi Loveay to Siem Reap (from whence Angkor Wat).

This scenic route is not physically demanding, as the countryside is fairly flat. It weaves through rubber plantations, crosses rivers and passes through the paddy fields and lush countryside of the Mekong Delta before crossing into Cambodia - a land of traditional villages, busy markets, ancient temples and colourful pagodas. The locals do not see many foreigners, and those who venture into remote country areas on uncrowded back roads are invariably the subjects of great curiosity, especially to children. But the interesting passers-by from another world are invariably received with warmth and hospitality in these rural backwaters.

HOW

By bike

WHEN TO GO

November to February

TIME IT TAKES

Allow at least 10 days, with a day each in Phnom Penh and Angkor Wat.

HIGHLIGHTS

A visit to the extraordinary Caodai Great Temple at Tay Ninh, headquarters of Caodaism, one of Vietnam's most interesting religions.

A tour to Phnom Penh, "The Pearl of Asia" - Cambodia's capital with its wonderful Khmer temples and classic colonial architecture.

Taking a side trip into the beautiful Kiriom National Park with its pine forests, orchids, waterfalls and the Cham Bok Pagoda. 

The temples of Angkor Wat, abandoned for centuries, rediscovered in the 1800s and justifiably regarded as one of the wonders of the world.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

If cycling isn't your thing, the Saigon-Angkor Wat journey can be done on water, cruising up the mighty 

Hotels in Saigon and Siem Reap

Ho Chi Minh Trail

Hotels in Vietnam

The Ho Chi Minh Trail began in North Vietnam, cut through the mountains and wound its way hundreds of miles south through both Laos and Cambodia and the various mountain passes along the way enabled access to South Vietnam. It was not simply a single road, but a maze of up to 19000 km (12000 mi) of trails passing through triple canopy jungle, karst mountains and open grassland.

The remarkable route enabled troops, arms and supplies to be moved south towards Saigon. As much of it was invisible from the air, the USA began a massive, secret campaign of bombing and defoliation, particularly in Laos, a country with which they were not at war. Between 1964 and 1973, over two million tonnes of bombs were droppeed on Laos, making it the most heavily bombed country in history. Absolutely no reparations were offered subsequently, leaving eastern parts of Laos littered with UXO (unexploded ordinance) that kills and maims people to this day.

It is possible to travel on parts of the trail in Laos, by mountain bike, motorbike or 4X4, but you must take a guide, and follow the route faithfully - exploring here could be fatal. Starting from Xepon, you can go as far north as the Mu Gia Pass, travelling through beautiful, mountainous, rainforest, across rickety log bridges over rivers, past tribal villages where, for a small contribution, you may be able to stay at night. Along the way you will see the debris of war - burnt out tanks, heavy artillery, scattered UXO and bomb craters. You will also see flowers planted in bomb casings, fences made from war detritus, tank treads used as bridges, and you will meet some amazing people, most of whom, remarkably, seem to hold no grudge.

HOW
By bike, motorbike or 4X4.

WHEN TO GO
November to March.

TIME IT TAKES
Anywhere between one day and two weeks depending on how far you want to go.

HIGHLIGHTS
Visit the UXO office in Xepon, view the collection of disabled ordinance here and talk to the experts who are clearing this deadly inheritance.
See the enormous Australian/Lao goldmine outside Xepon.
Visit the village of Ban Dong, on the Laos/Vietnam border, site of a major battle.
Enjoy the fabulous journey through the forest, the birds, butterflies and tropical flowers you will see, and thank your lucky stars bombs are not raining down on your head.

YOU SHOULD KNOW
The Ho Chi Minh trail was so named by Americans, after the North Vietnamese president, who came to be known as Uncle Ho. He oversaw the end of the French Indo-Chinese Empire, but died in Hanoi in 1969 without seeing America defeated and Vietnam re-united.
Hotels in Vietnam

Channel Tunnel by Eurostar

Hotels in London and Paris

 

A tunnel linking England and France was first dreamed up around 1800, but Napoleon's rampages and invasion fears put an end to that. In fact, it took nearby two centuries for the dream to become reality, with the opening of the Channel Tunnel in 1994.
Known in France as Le Tunnel sous la Manche or simply Le Tunnel, this 50 km (31 mi) double rail tunnel runs from Folkestone to Calais and handles both vehicle shuttle trains plus high-speed passenger services.

The latter are run by Eurostar, offering a fast journey at up to 320 kph (200 mph) between the city centres of London and Paris. With the (somewhat belated) completion of the high-speed line at the English end, it is now possible to take a day trip from one great capital to the other, to do business, shop or just look around.
From London, this stylish journey begins at the excellent new terminal within the magnificent, refurbished Victorian station of St.Pancras. There, travellers find everything they need  (such as a ticket office, currency exchange, newsagent, cafés and lounges) and some things that are more about setting in the mood (like the Champagne Bar).

Passangers may carry baggage straight onto the sleek, ultra-modern trains prior to their journey. After speeding through the English countryside via Ebbsfleet International and Ashford Stations, Eurostar shoots through the Tunnel before racing across France via Lille to Paris Gare du Nord. It's a great railway journey that everyone should do at least once.
There are different classes available - Business Premier, Leisure Select and Standard - and Eurostar regularly wins award for the all-round quality of service it offers. As a result, the service is heavily used and it is advisable to book in advance to be sure of a seat on the train of your choice.

HOW
By train

WHEN TO GO
Any time of year (but who can't resist Paris in the Spring?)

TIME IT TAKES
The fastest London-Paris journey time is two-and-a-quarter hours.

HIGHLIGHTS
A great view of the Dartford Crossing high-level bridge over the River Thames.
The old tunnel-boring machine on display near the English end of the Channel Tunnel.
Crossing beneath the English Channel in just 20 minutes (the ferry on the ocean wave above takes much longer!).

YOU SHOULD KNOW
The American Society of Civil Engineers has included the Channel Tunnel on its prestigious list of Seven Wonders of the Modern World.
Hotels in London and Paris

Oases of the Great Sand Sea

 Hotels in Egypt and Lybia

The Great Sand Sea is an uninhabitable belt of shifting golden dune ridges up to 100 m (330ft) high, a natural impassable barrier between Egypt and Lybia up to 300 km (200 mi) wide and extending for some 600 km (375 mi) north to south. Human habitation is only possible in the five remote oases at its edge, where mineral springs and waterholes enable life. On this 1000 km (600 mi) road adventure, you will experience the magical stillness of elemental landscapes and wonder at the resilience of communities who have managed to preserve their culture, continuosly since antiquity, in the face of such overwhelmingly hostile odds.

 

Siwa, Egypt's westernmost oasis is the site of the ancient Oracle of Amun, consulted by Alexander the Great. It is an 80 km (50mi) swathe of date palms, olive trees and salt lakes inhabited by Berbers. The 400 km (250 mi) road along the ancient caravan route to Bahariya, you cross the surreal White Desert with dramatic rock formations like giant mushrooms, to reach Farafra, one of the most isolated places in Egypt.

 

Compared to this tiny oasis, Dakhla seems huge - fourteen villages surrounded by fields of mulberry, citrus, datepalm and fig, voerlooked by magnificent pinkish cliffs. It is perhaps the most beautiful stop on your journey and the village of Al-Qasr with its medieval architecture is one of the most significant archeological sites of Egypt's Western Desert. Your final stop is Kharga on the notorious Forty Days Road, the slave route from the Sudan to Cairo. Once back in the tourist maelstrom of modern Egypt, you will immediately yearn to return to the mystical desert silence.

 

HOW

By 4X4

WHEN TO GO

October to March

TIME IT TAKES

One to two weeks

HIGHLIGHTS

Shali Fortress, Siwa

Gebel al - Mawta - Mountain of the Dead, tombs cut into hillside.

Painted houses of Farafra.

Agabat Valley and Crystal Mountain in the White Desert.

Necropolis of Bagawat, Kharga - 2nd century Coptic tombs.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

This journeys can only be done in a 4X4 vehicle. You must obtain permision to travel between Siwa and Bahariya. A permit can be obtained on the spot in Siwa.

Hotels in Egypt and Lybia

Cross the Atlantic on a Cargo Boat

Hotels in New York City

In a post-modern age of counting carbon footprints, freighter-travel is about as eco-friendly as it gets, short of a rowing boat. Cargo ships are the life-line of the global economy, transporting containers of goods all over the world. Although they do carry passengers, freighters don't advertise themselves. To book a passage you must be prepared to do plenty of research and be dedicated to the idea of a cryptic adventure into the unknown.

Of all the trade routes, the Trans-atlantic crossing is perhaps the most romantic, harking back to the belle époque, era of the ocean liner. The prospect of crossing the bleak immensity of the Atlantic without any organized on-board entertainment may seem a challenging one, but if you are self-reliant yet congenial then a freighter is the ideal way to travel. There is enormous pleasure to be had in wandering between decks, mucking in with the crew, or just sitting outside your cabin reading Moby Dick.

 

On the voyage to New York from Tilburg, London's container port, there comes a point, after the ship has weighed anchor at Rotterdam and Le Havre and there is only ocean ahead, when you may fleetingly feel stir-crazy; until the mesmerizing effect of the sea suddenly makes you aware of your own insignificance in comparison to the immensity of nature and you start to experience a joyful sense of liberation from mundane responsabilities.

 

After days of nothing but sea and sky, the sight of the Statue of Liberty is both elevating and humbling. As you step down the gangplank into the Land of the Free, you cannot help sparing a thought for the countless numbers who made this crossing before you, at the same time as wondering how anyone could possibly be so foolhardy as to attempt it in a rowing boat.

 

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Freighters carry a maximum of 12 paying passengers and sail to virtually every destination in the world at less than half cost of a passenger liner. A certain amount of serendipity is involved in planning your trip since there aren't regular scheduled crossings as there are with passenger ships. Sailing dates as well as ports of embarkation and debarkation may suddenly change without notice. It is important to keep in mind that you are on a working ship and it is not part of the crew's job to entertain or serve you.

Hotels in New York City

 

Mombasa to Zanzibar Cruise

Hotels in Kenya

  

Some companies now offer holidays that combine the glorious beach life of the Kenyan coast with a short cruise from Mombasa to Zanzibar. These are designed to give a taste of the pleasure of life at sea and a fascinating glimpse of East Africa and the Indian Ocean.

Mombasa has a very long history; Roman, Arabic and East Asian seafarers sheltered in its fine natural harbour. For centuries the Old town saw bloody battles between the Portuguese and the Omani Arabs following the Portuguese seizure of the city in an attempt to break the Arab monopoly of the lucrative spice trade. Modern Mombasa, despite its turbulent history, is a fine city, and, with its laid - back Swahili culture, a relaxing one.

 

Simply the name conjures up exotic fairytale images, and Zanzibar in reality is a bewitching place. This fertile tropical island is clothed in spice plantations and ringed by picture - postcard beaches and perfect blue waters. The capital, Stone Town, is steeped in history; it is a maze of narrow winding lanes and hidden courtyards, minarets and mysterious, massive closed doors. Zanzibar, under the rule of the Omani Arabs, who moved their capital from Muscat, was the world's most important clove supplier. Now, though the sultans and slaves have gone, the spices remain.

 

Most cruises sail from Mombasa in the afternoon and, after a night on board, provide a tour of the island, visiting Stone Town and a clove plantation. The journey back to Mombasa may allow a day on the tiny coral islet of Misali, off the coast of Pemba, Zanzibar's northern neighbour. This is a marine haven, with idyllic beaches and fascinating nature trails.

 

 

HOW

By dhow

WHEN TO GO

June to October

TIME IT TAKES

Three or four nights

HIGHLIGHTS

Mombasa's Fort Jesus and its museum are a must for anyone interested in the history of East Africa.

Misali is home to numerous species including flying foxes, rare monkeys and turtles.

Stone Town's alleyways, intricate balconies, coffee sellers and the market, full of colour, scent and noise.

The traditional music of Zanzibar is a vibrant mix of African, Arabic and Indian sounds.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Both Mombasa and Zanzibart are Muslim cultures; respect the dress code.

Stone Town has a reputation for robberies so be careful in empty streets.

Queen's lead singer Freddy Mercury was born in Stone Town, Tanzania.

Hotels in Kenya