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Mozambique's attractive holiday resort, Vilankulo is a charming town with a lively market and lovely beaches, and the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago. The main islands of the chain, lying between 10 and 25 km (6 and 15 mi) offshore, are Bazaruto, Santa Carolina, Benguerra and Margaruque (which is close enough for a day trip). The whole area is protected as conservation area. The sand dunes, tidal flats and saline lakes support a wide variety of sea birds ; the coral reefs teem with jish and marine mammals. once this was a backpackrers : dream, with nothing but campsites; now the islands offer luxury accommodation. The most enjoyahle way to explore this tropical paradise is by dhow.
With billowing sails and graceful silhouettes, dhows epitomise a romantic dream of travel. In reality traditional, sail-only dhows, fighting wind, wave and current, becalmed or grounded, with nothing but a rudimentary toilet, have their drawbacks. Dhows with auxiliary outboards and more comfortable facilities offer catering and on-board sleeping arrangements and camping options.
Typically a trip will call at Margaruque for snorkelling and the beach and continue to Benguerra. The journey on to Bazaruto, with its high dunes, anchors at Two Mile Reef for diving. The deep waters around Santa Carolina offer good game fishhing. All these low-lying islands have white, palm-fringed beaches - wild and wave-beaten on the windward side, cahn turquoise waters and glorious sunsets on the leeward.
The diving in these protected reefs is first class. Uncrowded dive-sites have excellent visibility; as well as a rainbow of small fish, dolphins, rays, humpback whales and turtles are widespread.
HOW
By dhow
WHEN TO GO
May to November
TIME IT TAKES
One day or three to five days
HIGHLIGHTS
A viable population of the found around Santa Carolina.
The top of the Bazaruto dunes gives a fine view over the archipelago.
The cooking of the dhows resident chefs is famously good.
YOU SHOULD KNOW
Rock reefs can be razor-sharp.
Winds, tides and sandbanks can be hazards for motorized dhows; if you arrange your own trip, check the reliability of your dhow with the tourist office.
