The Ho Chi Minh Trail began in North Vietnam, cut through the mountains and wound its way hundreds of miles south through both Laos and Cambodia and the various mountain passes along the way enabled access to South Vietnam. It was not simply a single road, but a maze of up to 19000 km (12000 mi) of trails passing through triple canopy jungle, karst mountains and open grassland.
The remarkable route enabled troops, arms and supplies to be moved south towards Saigon. As much of it was invisible from the air, the USA began a massive, secret campaign of bombing and defoliation, particularly in Laos, a country with which they were not at war. Between 1964 and 1973, over two million tonnes of bombs were droppeed on Laos, making it the most heavily bombed country in history. Absolutely no reparations were offered subsequently, leaving eastern parts of Laos littered with UXO (unexploded ordinance) that kills and maims people to this day.
It is possible to travel on parts of the trail in Laos, by mountain bike, motorbike or 4X4, but you must take a guide, and follow the route faithfully - exploring here could be fatal. Starting from Xepon, you can go as far north as the Mu Gia Pass, travelling through beautiful, mountainous, rainforest, across rickety log bridges over rivers, past tribal villages where, for a small contribution, you may be able to stay at night. Along the way you will see the debris of war - burnt out tanks, heavy artillery, scattered UXO and bomb craters. You will also see flowers planted in bomb casings, fences made from war detritus, tank treads used as bridges, and you will meet some amazing people, most of whom, remarkably, seem to hold no grudge.
HOW
By bike, motorbike or 4X4.
WHEN TO GO
November to March.
TIME IT TAKES
Anywhere between one day and two weeks depending on how far you want to go.
HIGHLIGHTS
Visit the UXO office in Xepon, view the collection of disabled ordinance here and talk to the experts who are clearing this deadly inheritance.
See the enormous Australian/Lao goldmine outside Xepon.
Visit the village of Ban Dong, on the Laos/Vietnam border, site of a major battle.
Enjoy the fabulous journey through the forest, the birds, butterflies and tropical flowers you will see, and thank your lucky stars bombs are not raining down on your head.
YOU SHOULD KNOW
The Ho Chi Minh trail was so named by Americans, after the North Vietnamese president, who came to be known as Uncle Ho. He oversaw the end of the French Indo-Chinese Empire, but died in Hanoi in 1969 without seeing America defeated and Vietnam re-united.
Hotels in Vietnam
