Showing posts with label Morocco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Morocco. Show all posts

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Marrakech Express

Hotels in Marrakech


For the baby-boom generation, the Marrakech Express conjures up the old hippy days of the late 1960s and early 1970s, when everyone seemed to be iliscovering the wonders of Morocco, a country and culture so fascinatingly different from Europe, yet sitting on its doorstep. Immortalised by the eponymous song , the Marrakech Express remains an iconic journey.
Rabat is Morocco's capital. Less famous than other Moroccan cities, it is a delightful place, with a marvellous fortified Kasbah, and an ancient, walled medina, as well as a French-built new town. It is well worth spending a day or two here before taking the train.

 

The track follows the coastline south-west lo Casablanca, passing the up-market beach resort of Skhirat, as well as Mohammedia, an industrial town but with a huge beach which draws tourists from both Casablanca and Rabat. All Morocco's cities pride themselves on their individuality, and Casablanca is no exception. Built mainly in the 20th century by the French, and boasting some fine Art Deco architecture, this is the country's business and financial hub.
Leaving Casablanca, the track veers inland, through the city’s fertile, agricultural hinterland, past orange groves loaded with fruit and fields of crops and vegetables. Gradually the green fields are left behlnd as the train makes its way across a fiat, increasingly barren plain. Scoured by the wind and sun for rnillermia, the deep red earth and rocky outcrops look bleak and under populated.

 

As the train approaches its goal, the scenery changes again and the magnificent range of the Atlas Mountains, with their snow-capped peaks, come into view. Finally, the spectacular, ancient, red mudbrick walled, Imperial city of Marrakech is reached. Founded in the 11th century, this tourist mecca and architectural gem demands that you explore its labyrinthine souks and remarkable, secret gardens.

 

HOW
By train

WHEN TO GO
March to June and September to November. Try to avoid Ramadan.

TIME IT TAKES
About four hours

HIGHLIGHTS
Marrakech's famous square, Djema el-Fna, crowded with exotic street entertainers and excellent street food.
The 12th century Koutoubia minarete.
The Saadien Tombs.
The Majorelle Gardens, founded by the artist Jacques Majorelle in 1917, the gardens were restored by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge who bought the property after Majorelle's death in 1962.

YOU SHOULD KNOW
Trains in Morocco are frequent, efficient and reasonably priced, first class and second class compartments contain six or eight seats respectively, with air conditioning in first class on certain inter-city routes. Plans to build a high-speed link between Tangiers and Marrakech have been agreed, as .has the building of a tunnel under the Mediterranean from Paloma, Spain to Tangiers.


 

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Cross the Strait of Gibraltar

Hotels in Algeciras

The ferry ride across the Strait of Gibraltar is a startling journey of contrasts and culture shock. You suddenly realise how incredible close Europe and Africa really are, which makes the differences between them even more unaccountably stark. The Strait is very narrow indeed - only 13 km (8 mi) at its narrowest point, and 50 km (31 mi) separate Algeciras from Tangier.

 

Algeciras is not the sort of place that anyone goes to by choice. A sprawling industrialized city on the Bay of Gibraltar, at the bottleneck between the Mediterranean and Atlantic, it is one of the busiest ports in the world. But, for that very reason it is a peculiarly exciting city, with the highly-charged, chaotic atmosphere that invariably pervades a port. Once you start to explore, you will be pleasantly surprised by how attractive the older parts are.

 

Even before you step on the ferry you feel the presence of North Africa in the groups of djellaba-clad migrants and back-street tea shops. As soon as you are aboard this sensation is heightened. Everyone around you is suddenly speaking Arabic; you are the outsider. As the boat departs, you experience a surge of anticipation then, looking back to catch a last glimpse of the Rock of Gibraltar, a quite extraordinary sense of loss, only to be overwhehned minutes later by the thrill of sighting the minarets of Tangier in the distance.
Landing in Tangier, your nostrils are assailed by the exotic smells in the air, and there's a sultry atmosphere that befits the city's reputation as a seedy adventurers' haunt. Tangier has a curious, fading grandeur about it and while it's by no means a typical Moroccan city or indeed an African one, it is an exciting and idiosyncratic introduction to an extraordinary continent.

 

HOW
By boat

WHEN TO GO
Any time

TIME IT TAKES
70 minutes to 2.5 hours depending on ferry speed

HIGHLIGHTS
Aigeciras - Mercado de Abastos - main market, Barrio San Isidro - old quarter of Tangier - Views of the Rock of Gibraltar and Dar el Makhsen, Tangier – 17th Century sultan's palace housing vast art collection.
Drinking mint tea or coffee at one of the cafes in the Petit Socco in Tangier or having a drink at (posh) Minzah Hotel or the (unposh) Muniria Hotel, where William Burroughs wrote The Naked Lunch.

YOU SHOULD KNOW
You can also get to Tangier by the fast ferry from Tarifa in only thirty minutes - much quicker but far less thrilling.
Cecil Beaton, Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote, William Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac are just some of Tangier's famous past residents and habitues. Though the Tangier of today is a pale shadow of its former self, it still has a certain seductive allure.