Monday, May 23, 2011

Mount Vancouver




Mount Vancouver is the eighth highest mountain in Canada and is located in Kluane National Park and Reserve on the Canada-US border. Mt. Vancouver has three summits: north, middle and south with middle being the lowest. The south summit borders Canada and the United States and is known as Good Neighbor Peak. While conventional wisdom indicates that the north summit is the highest, discrepancies in topographic maps of the area muddle the question. Older Canadian maps indicate that north is the highest but newer US maps based on GPS, show the south summit higher. However, the US maps do not show the north summit
The mountain was named by W. H. Dall in 1874 after George Vancouver, who explored the southeast coast of Alaska from 1792 to 1794.
1949 North Buttress (northwest ridge): FA of mountain by William Hainsworth, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Bob McCarter, Noel Odell; with Walter Wood in support.
1975 Northeast Ridge (to north peak), FA by Cliff Cantor, Bab Dangel, Paul Ledoux, Rob Milne, Hal Murray, Bob Walker, John Yates and Barton DeWolf.
1977 West Face, FA by John Lauchlan, John Calvert, Trevor Jones and Mike Sawyer.