Bosphorus Ferry Trip

Hotels in Istanbul

 

Istanbul, capital of mighty Christian and Islarillc empires, was always a bridge between east and west; now Europe and Asia are linked by road, but ferries remain essential to life in this great city. Tour companies nm Bosphorus Cruises with fast boats, but a leisurely zigzagging trip on a regular ferry from the centre of Istanbul to a The Bosphorus, the 30-lan (19-rni) strait linking the Black Sea with the Mediterranean, remains an important trade route; in the past, it was also a defence and a sununer escape from the heat and disease of the city. Along both banks are royal residences (including the splendid Beylerbeyi Palace), villas, fashionable suburbs, boat yards, fortresses and working villages. Not many of the beautiful wooden yalis, the summerhouses of the wealthy, survive - many burned down, or were demolished before preservation laws came into force.

 

The waterfronts are punctuated by mosques, including the distinctive Ortakoy Mosque, just below the Ataturk Bridge. South of soaring Fatih Bridge, the twin castles - small Anadolu Hisar and the massive Rumeli Hisar, the Fortress of Europe - could effectively 'lock' the Bosphorus. Inland from the fashionable settlements on the European shore is Belgrade Forest, once a hunting preserve for the Sultans. The last fany stop is at Anadolu Kavagi, on the Asian shore.

 

Here there is time to explore and have a meal, or plan a return journey by bus, dohnus, and short ferry hops, visiting some of the places glimpsed on the journey.

 

WHEN TO GO

The ferry runs all year

TIME IT TAKES

About 1 hour 30 minutes each way

HIGHLIGHTS

Kucuksu Kasri, near Anadolu Hisari.

The shady site was long a royal favourite for picnics; in the 19th century, the wooden kiosk was replaced with an exquisite tiny Rococo palace.

Sariyer - a fish market and good restaurants, and the private Sadberk Hanim Museum, which displays a fascinating collection in a yali, with rooms arranged in the Ottoman style.

Anadolu Kavagi - a lovely village, with old wooden houses and waterfront fish restaurants. From the top of the huge ruined castle there is a panoramic view to the Black Sea.

The Istanbul skyline from the water, especially at dusk, is spellbinding.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

There is a reduced ferry service out of season - check timetables.

Glacier Express

Hotels in Switzerland

As befits a service connecting two of the most glamorous resorts in the Alps, Zermatt and St Moritz, the Glacier Express is the last word in panoramic luxury. It needs to be, because in just eight hours it traverses the heart of Switzerland's highest mountain ranges. The journey starts at the foot of the twisted pyramid of the Matterhorn and skirts the Bernese Oberland, following the valley floors (in summer, riotous profusions of wild flowers) where the Rhône and the Rhine begin, and just below the line where glaciers spill out from the high passes.

The landscape is a roll call of iconic names. The snow-capped surrunits of Sehilthorn, Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger pass in distant backdrop, and the high peaks close in around the climbing train. Soaring viaducts arch above cloud-filled chasms, carrying it up and over the 2,033 m (6,668 ft) Oberalp Pass. Edging round sheer precipices, across 291 bridges and through 91 tunnels, the Glacier Express brings you so close to the mountains you can actually see the occasional chamois looking outraged at having to share the elemental magnificence of its rocky perch.

In fact, the train is every bit as first-class as the scenery. Though it has both 1st and 2nd class seating, everyone sits (in great comfort) beneath a glass roof, with good services at their disposal. The difference is that 2nd class is more crowded, an indicator of the train's popularity throughout the year. In summer it provides access to some of the finest high alpine walks; in winter it serves three of Switzerland's most justly celebrated skiing areas. But most people take the Glacier Express for the sheer joy of sightseeing in luxury - and then high-stepping off the train in the unadulterated chic of St Moritz or Zermatt.

WHEN TO GO
Year-round. Seat reservations are mandatory and lunch on the train should be pre-booked.

TIME IT TAKES
About eight hours (Zermatt to St Moritz, via Visp, Brig, Andermatt and Churl. The unhurried pace of the ascents and descents justifies the route's nickname of 'the Slowest Express Train in the World'.

HIGHLIGHTS
The tunnel at Furka - with its viaduct approaches and staggering ravine views, both a technological and scenic triumph.
The view from the top of the Oberalp Pass, looking along the length of the Alps. On a really clear day you see some 50 peaks in serried ranks leading to Mont Blanc.
The descent from Chur (Switzerland's historic and oldest township) to St Moritz.

YOU SHOULD KNOW
The Glacier Express also has a 'Premium' service available for private parties of a single carriage or even whole trains.